The Heat is On
Identifying drought-stress in your plants & trees
Oh, July and your paralyzing heat. Not even the weeds thrive.
Typically, I tend to hibernate during the month of July. I go into my cool basement to sit and wait it out – it’s just too hot to be outside. Plants don’t grow. Weeds don’t take over if you don’t pull them and the roots are doing everything in their power to stay active and grow.
If you dare go outside, July is a great month to assess your plant material’s health, even though everything in the garden is stifled.
Trees are our most valuable asset. They provide shade in the heat, refuge for the birds, are the most expensive to remove and replace and can increase your property value by 10 to 15 percent. If you aren’t sure of where to contribute your water, give it to the trees. They need extra TLC during the heat of the summer. (Remember, we live in a high-plains prairie climate. . . trees didn’t used to live here, so they need assistance adapting over the next few hundred years.)
Drought-stress is a common problem in Colorado. Drought-stress occurs when the roots are not performing properly; they are either getting too much water (thus, not allowing oxygen to the root system), or they aren’t receiving enough moisture, which is typically the case. The pattern of stress occurs from the top down and from the outside, inward.
There are many obvious symptoms of drought stress in trees. Leaf wilt is among the most visible; the leaves loose their “turgidity” and look and feel limp and droopy. A decrease in growth (both in girth and length) may be obvious. Wood or bark may begin to crack. The tree’s canopy may thin. Deciduous leaves turn brown from the edges inward and between the veins (leaf scorch) and sometime they roll up. Evergreen needles brown from the tip downward. Suckers developing on branches is also a sign. So is the yellowing of leaves (chlorosis).
All of the above signs are the plants telling you that they are stressed. Extra water at the dripline to where the branches extend – 3 to 5 feet beyond the dripline for evergreens – preferably in the early morning or evening, and fertilizer can and will decrease the stress. The longer the stress occurs, the more susceptible to disease the plants become. The earlier you catch the signs and remedy them, the healthier your trees (shrubs, perennials and lawn) will be.
Grass shows signs of stress, too. A gentle reminder that now is a good time to re-think your lawn. A garden in its stead, properly planned – with soil amendment, drip irrigation, drought-tolerant plant choice and mulch (a.k.a. xeriscape) – can offer a beautiful and cooling space without the water consumption of the grass.
As you stay cool in this heat, give thanks to the trees for their shade by giving them their nutrients and water to stay healthy and strong.
July Gardening Tips
Continue to fertilize annuals, perennials and roses.
Visit your favorite garden center for tips on what tools and fertilizers are best for your situation.
Continue to deadhead, as this will promote more blooms and keep the garden looking neat. Fresh cut bouquets are best kept if picked in the early morning.
Side-dress long season crops with 5-10-5 or other balanced fertilizers.
Fertilize strawberry plants with 21-0-0 fertilizer when the harvest is finished.
Mid-late July: Plant beets, escarole, kale, collards, lettuce, radish, chard, spinach and turnip for a fall harvest.
Divide iris that are crowded or did not bloom well.